Construction Technology and Management Politechnika Poznanska
Construction Technology Laboratory
Translated By :
Ilias EL KOUM (Master 2 CTM)
Outline for the topic: Tiling
Tiles can be very expensive depending upon what you choose. Tile can crack or chip depending on the quality of installation and whether a proper sub-floor has been installed. Another disadvantage of tile floor, it does not have sound-dampening qualities compare to carpet or cork. Tile floor also is less comfortable when standing for longer periods.
Summary
1- How to calculate the number of tiles needed for a piece?
Before laying tiles in the wall or floor, we should consider the total amount of tiles you need. For this, a simple calculation enough: the pattern layout.
Know first that the tiles are sold per square meter. For the dimensions of the surface to be tiled, simply multiply its length by its width.
Multiply the amount determined by the number of tiles per square meter (eg. 100 tiles of 10 x 10 cm).
The calculation is then very simple, for example by taking an area of 10 m²:
10 (area) x 100 (tiles per m²) = 1000
This calculation is however valid only if you ask that same size tiles.
2- How to achieve the joint of a floor tile?
Grouting a floor tile is a meticulous operation. Indeed, besides the aesthetic aspect is its longevity is at stake. If the seal is not perfect, the water can infiltrate, leading to peeling tiles.
Necessary material:
- Mortar joint;
- A squeegee;
- A sponge;
- A dry cloth;
- A varnish or waterproof seal for white or very light joints.
You can opt for a traditional mortar joint, cement color, or a colored mortar that recall the tones of your tiles. Know that white joints or light colors are not recommended as they get dirty very quickly. If you opted for these tones, protect your joints with a special varnish or water-repellent product, which will protect them from moisture.
Be very attentive to the instructions of the mortar, which must be sufficiently liquid to penetrate the joints. Beware though, if it's too much, it will put a lot more time to dry and the risk of erosion and cracks in fact increase.
- Before starting the operation, make sure that your tiled surface is completely dry (at least 24 hours drying).
- Prepare the mortar joint. It is generally in the form of powder to be diluted with water. Please observe the recommended dose on the package.
- Then do sink the mortar between the tiles.
- Using the squeegee, make several passes for filling joints in depth.
- Smooth them with your fingers or squeegee.
- As soon as the seals begin to harden, clean the entire surface with a damp sponge just.
- Finally, spend a dry cloth to remove all traces of mortar on the tiles. Wait for 24 days to 48 hours before cleaning the entire surface.
3- How to clean joints of tiles?
3- How to clean joints of tiles?
Over time, tile joints can blacken and present mold, which is not very aesthetic. There are fast and cheap solutions to restore their original luster.
You have a choice of different mixtures to be applied directly on your joints to eliminate dirt and mildew:
- The detergent added water
- The pure water with bleach;
- Water containing potash;
- Water containing hydrochloric acid;
- Food soda mixed with lemon juice.
After leaving for a few minutes, rub the joints with a stiff brush. Rinse thoroughly and gradually.
Note: for simple, regular maintenance, you can use warm soapy water whose action will be reinforced by rinsing with bleach.
4- How to pick a tile?
What are the steps to pick a tile? Explanations.
Necessary material:
- Cutter;
- Putty knife or spatula rigid;
- Adhesive mortar;
- Notched trowel;
- Mallet;
- Sponge;
- Cloth.
- Remove the mortar joint to pick up the tile with a sharp knife, being careful not to damage other tiles.
- After removing the tile off, get yourself a painter's knife or a spatula to scrape the hard edges and the back of the tile. Do not forget to scratch the surface to be glued.
- For the tile is as clean and as smooth as possible, and that it adheres perfectly to the ground, let it soak overnight.
- After this time, prepare the glue mortar.
- Apply the amount of adhesive required for a tile and spread it over the entire surface by helping you a notched trowel.
- Then place the tile, adjust it perfectly and tap it lightly with a mallet so that it completely adheres to the glue.
- Finally, remove the excess glue and clean all your tools before the glue dries. Wait for everything to be perfectly dry before grouting.
5- How to change damaged wall tile
Always have more tile than is needed during installation. It will serve you well to replace damaged tiles.
Necessary material:
- A new wall tile;
- An electric drill;
- A painter's knife;
- A notched trowel;
- A hammer and chisel;
- A broom;
- A sponge;
- Gloves and goggles;
- The grout;
- Tile adhesive.
Start by putting your glasses and your gloves.
Prepare the surface
-Using your drill, first breaking the tile to replace its center, making sure to position it perpendicularly forest. Stop once the tile breaks.
-Then gradually remove the remaining pieces using your hammer and your chisel. Go to to go inside to the outside.
-Once your damaged tile is removed completely, remove any remaining traces of glue with your putty knife.
-Now clean the surface with brush.
-Moisten the surface with a sponge to ensure adhesion of tile adhesive.
Implement the new tile
-Now apply the tile adhesive on your trowel and coat in the back of the new tile. The application must be done by tilting the spatula 45 degrees.
-Lay the tile in the location you have cleared and cleaned, pressing gently. Ensure the proper alignment.
-Apply the grout by covering the one that started to form due to excess tile adhesive. Carefully turn the tile.
-Let dry a quarter of an hour.
-Then smooth the joint with your finger and clean the burrs of grout.
1- Laying the floor tiling:
Used for centuries, the tiles are a safe bet for rustic flooring. This terracotta tiles red hexagonal brings a warm dimension to a room.
- Of tiles;
- A tray to soak the tiles;
- Two chevrons to the level;
- 10 buckets of 10 liters of fine sand;
- 17 liters of water;
- A 35 kg bag of hydraulic natural lime;
- A pair of gloves to protect the lime;
- Dry cement;
- A special glue terracotta tiles;
- Plastic braces (optional);
- A 2m rule;
- A level;
- A mallet;
- A wooden board;
- Mortar joint;
- A squeegee;
- A mop.
It must first soak the tiles at least 24 hours in a bath full of water. If you use recovery tiles, they must be soaked longer in warm water mixed with 5% hydrochloric acid.
The next step is to prepare the ground. A mortar screed is to be poured thereon. To ask 8 m² of floor tiles, you will need 10 liters of fine sand, 17 liters of water, a hydraulic natural lime bag of 35 kg. Mix everything. Then arrange cleats as a guide before starting to pour the mortar on the floor.
The installation will not take place until after the establishment of the screed to avoid damaging it. Once past 24, disperse the dry cement screed. Then, if you have not already done so, you must determine the pattern layout of tiles, that is to say them on the floor. A blank is needed to enable laying of the mix different colors of the tile.
You can then begin to lay the tiles starting with a corner of the room. Use a special glue for the terracotta tiles that you will gradually drop to the ground. You can have plastic braces between the tiles to book a regular space for the mortar joint which is then added.
If you come across a thinner floor tile, add mortar location before positioning it in order to balance the soil. To put all the tiles at the same height: knock with a rubber mallet on a wooden board placed above the floor. Also make sure your surface is flat with a level.
After drying glue but as long as the tiles are still wet, you should ask 4 to 6 mm joints between tiles.
Prepare the mortar joint. It is generally in powder form for dilution with water. Otherwise, you can do it yourself by mixing 35 kg of cement, 4 buckets of 10 liters of sand and 17 liters of water.
Using a squeegee spread the mortar on the tiles and make sure to fill the spaces left for the joints between each tile. As to the drying, remove the seal excess mortar with a wet sponge. You will clean the residual surplus with sawdust as the installation will be finalized and that the seal has started to dry.
After all these steps, you will need to wait another month before you can walk on your tile floor tiles or installing furniture. This delay is necessary so that the tiles are securely fastened to the floor and they are completely dry, as the joints.
2- Laying tiles on a staircase:
- Equipment
- A hammer
- Scissors Tiler
- A brush
- Squeegee
- A notched trowel
- A file
- A sponge
- A cloth
- A felt pen
- The tile adhesive
- Start by cleaning all cemented surfaces using your brush.
- Apply a tile on a riser to make a mark with your felt to set the cutting height.
- With your scissors and your hammer Tiler remove the unnecessary part of the tile.
- Improve your cut using lime.
- To install the liner, follow starting with the bottom of the stairs, starting systematically by the riser.
- Cover the tile adhesive riser using your trowel.
- Then apply the tile making sure the corners.
- Then coat the horizontal surface. The end of such tiles must overlie the wafer those you applied to the riser.
- Finally prepare a slip that you will spread to the squeegee.
- Have a coup damp sponge to remove any surplus, and then clean using your rag.
3- Lying the floor tile:
Laying a floor tile is not very complicated but requires properly preparing the surface and observing different stages.
- A cutting machine tiles;
- Tile adhesive;
- Braces;
- A trowel;
- A toothed spatula;
- A rubber mallet;
- A spirit level;
- The anti-humidity and anti-mold product, if necessary;
- Self-leveling leveling coating if the surface is not planar;
- Trichloroethylene to remove any grease stains on the floor.
Before starting the installation, make sure the support is perfectly prepared. It must be strong, healthy, clean, and dry course plan.
Do not hesitate to treat if it has traces of moisture (mold) and to carry out patching if the surface is not flat, if your tiling could eventually suffer fractures due, among others, to cantilever. Finally, note that the glue will not fix correctly if the ground is dusty and stained. A simple vacuuming and cleaning any tasks trichloroethylene resolve the matter.
In the case of a very porous surface, it is advisable to go a layer of tile adhesive using a brush and let dry before starting tiling. A simple plaster patching can also do the trick. If your tiles are porous, you can soak them in water so that the tile adhesive does not dry too quickly.
Tip: do not hesitate to unpack the tiles packets and mixing them to avoid getting too uniform set.
-First, think in terms of installation, or drawing on a plan or elevation. Either from the center of the room and distribute the tiles on the periphery or from the axis of the main entrance of the room. In the case of a tile patterns, it is important to carry out a precise plan on which will indicate the location of each type of tile and make a glue less (or pose white) on a surface of about 1 50 m.
-For aligned tiles, joints should be regular, which will be done smoothly with the plastic braces you place systematically at the corners of the tiles. You shall put away just before the adhesive has completely dried. You can also let the grout flow and above but it is not really advised.
-Once your floor is clean, smooth and dry, spread the adhesive mortar with the trowel in portions of about 1 m².
-For the tiles adhere well, make furrows in the tile adhesive with a notched trowel.
-Place the first tile and tap with the rubber mallet to set it in the glue.
-Divide then braces at each corner of the tile, and place the second tile against one of these, the third against another, etc. When laying surface is completed, tamp the tiles to the mallet.
-Repeat until the soil is fully tiled and check the flatness of your floor thanks to the spirit level before the adhesive has completely dried.
-For large format (30x30 cm from), it is advisable to double sticking on the floor and tiles.
Know that there are several dimensions of joints, and the width will depend on the size of your tiles. So, go for joints 2 to 3 mm if you ask tiles 10x10 cm, choose joints 3 to 5 mm for the tiles of 20x20 cm, and joints of 5 to 10 mm for the tiles of 30x30 cm.
4- Lying tiles on a terrace:
Necessary material:
-Your terracotta tiles
-A trowel
-A hammer
-A spirit level
-A brush brooms
-Cement
-Sand
-A broom
-A sponge
-Thick cords
-A stiff bristled brush
-Start by cleaning the concrete floor of the terrace. The surface must be perfectly clean.
-Apply the mortar on the surface, to a thickness of about one centimeter. Using your trowel, smooth the entire starting at an angle.
-Apply grease on each tile. This will prevent the cement to impregnate terracotta.
Place the tiles starting from the edge of the slab. Leave about one centimeter between each tile.
Make sure the tiles are aligned and right using the spirit level. You can use the handle of the trowel to balance the tiles.
Slide the cord in each space between the pavers and tighten, proceeding by row.
Remove drawstrings and apply the mortar to fill the spaces between the tiles.
Use stiff bristled brush to finish filling.
Let the mortar dry start and remove the excess with a damp sponge.
Let dry 3-5 days before walking on the surface.
5- Laying tiles on a curved carrier:
- Equipment
- A mallet
- A stone Carborundum
- A trowel
- Squeegee
- A tile cutter
- A spirit level
- A plumb line
- Cementitious adhesive
- The slip
- A sponge
- Using the tile cutter, proceed to the cutting of your tiles. Make strips of a width not exceeding 2 or 3 centimeters. To ensure your cut are identical, use the first tile cut as "boss".
- You can improve the appearance of edges using carborundum stone.
- Then proceed to glue the tiles using a trowel.
Laying
- You can now start laying on the rounded surface, trying to ensure that the joints are at the same level as those already covered parties.
- You can use the mallet to improve the positioning of the tiles if needed.
- Remember to check regularly that your tiles are straight using the plumb line.
- Note that installing the last tile often requires a re-cutting.
- Using the sponge spread the slurry on the surface, taking care to fill all the gaps.
- Let dry half an hour.
6- Tiling tiled Snap:
The tools needed
- A vacuum;
- A sander;
- A wedge to hit;
- A mallet;
- A cutter;
- Tiling your choice;
- A wall putty;
- A joint compound.
The advantage of tile clip is that it does not need to be an expert. Simple to use, it snaps without glue, is compatible with under floor heating and installation is very fast. There is also a multitude of colors and floor tiles sizes on the market. Give a second life to your soil and benefit from our advice in order to lay a tile clip that will be successful.
7- Laying on existing tiles:
Before installing your tile clip makes sure the soil is flat and smooth. This is extremely important for the future rendering of your work. After purchasing your tiles, remember to mix different slabs tiles, in order to obtain different hues and avoid a gradient effect of too uniform color to the pose.
Ask a new tile on the former, it is possible. This saves you from having to take off the old coating, which is rather restrictive.
Necessary material:
- A rubber mallet;
- A grinder;
- A vacuum;
- Laundry
- A spirit level or the lead wire;
- Glue;
- A trowel;
- A notched trowel.
The first thing to do is check the status of the old tiles which must be healthy and plan. So when you tap it with a rubber mallet, it must not sound hollow.
- Prepare the ground so that the adhesive adheres perfectly. For this, sand the old tiles with a grinder. Vacuum and clean the floor with powerful cleaner. Your laundry can also use a "primer" to prepare the surface without sanding.
- With a spirit level or lead wire draw in a corner a vertical line at a distance less than the size of a tile.
- If you find that the surface is not perfectly horizontal, assume the highest point and draw a horizontal line with the spirit level.
- With the trowel, paste on a 1 m² surface.
- Using a notched trowel spread the glue and makes parallel furrows.
- Place the first tile in the angle formed by the vertical line and the base of the wall. If your soil is not right, place your tile between the vertical line and the horizontal line you've drawn.
- Position the cross at the corners, then place a second tile next to the first and repeat the operation until it covers all the glued surface.
- To remove air present under the tiles, tap them with your hand
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